![]() ![]() ![]() Then simply place the pliers into place and release the pressure on the drill press quill. You can compress the guide down between the opened jaws of a drill press vise supporting the plate. >Another way using a Drill Press to compress the spring: The only difficult part is sometimes compressing the spring & plate with the pliers. When in place, rock the hammer back a little to take up the mainspring tension off the plier jaws and remove the pliers. Now the spring and the plate are compressed and can be replaced into the frame as a unit. It's the width of the jaws you need to create the spacer between the back of the plate and the pin. Make sure you use one that is small enough to fit into the frame with the mainspring assembly in tow, not a lot of clearance in there.Įven a needle nose will work. No need to damage, score or bite into the guide rod with the pliers. The pliers will be trapped between the back of the plate and the pin. Push down on the plate compressing the spring and as soon as the plate with the plier jaws is clear of the pin,close the plier jaws. Open the pliers far enough to span the pin but push against the plate. You need to compress the spring & the plate slightly and slip a spacer in between the backside of the plate and that pin.Ī pliers works for both. The spring is held on the guide rod at the back end by the plate with the pin on the back of that. You have the guide rod with the mainspring standing up (or out) from the vise which ever is more comfortable for you for the next step. Put the mainspring & guide assembly in a vise.Ĭlamp the vise on to the end of the guide that contacts the hammer. Already cut to 26", it accounted for a lot of game when I still hunted back then. I had a nice 12ga bought at a house sale for $10 in the late 60's. The ends of the rod could be worn also.Īll that for a IJ Champion,but they are neat little shotguns. The quick method was to peen the hole tighter on the part or both parts to take up the wear. ![]() Sometimes the hole(s) where the rod engages the two parts are just worn and the slack to take up the wear allows the lever to go way to the left. But that will require you to take a lot of the bend out of the connecting rod. You can over do it too, and not have enough lever movement to dis-engage the bolt. It's all cosmetic, the locking bolt is still in the same engagement. In pushing on the lever, it swings it more towards the center, 6 o'clock position. Straightening out the over all bend to the rod pushes on the lever ,you are lengthening the connecting rod by taking some of the curve out of it. The other end into the bottom of the top lever so when you rotate the lever, it pivots the locking bolt. One end slips into a hole in the locking bolt itself. Slight bend to it with a hook bend on each end. It's just a round steel rod about 1/8" diameter. Sometimes you can straighten the bend in the connecting rod that runs between the locking bolt and the top lever. ![]()
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